How to Estimate Take-Home Pay
Your offer letter says $100,000. Your friend says you'll "lose about a third to taxes." Your dad says "it depends." None of these are useful when you're deciding whether to take the job, move cities, or sign the apartment lease.
Estimating take-home pay isn't hard, but it does require following a specific sequence. Mix up the order — for example, applying federal tax brackets to your gross instead of your taxable income — and you'll be off by thousands. This guide walks through the five-step process with a $100,000 single example, then shows how the math shifts when you change one variable.
The five steps in order
- Start with gross: Annual salary or wages before any deductions.
- Subtract pre-tax deductions: Traditional 401(k), HSA, FSA, pre-tax health insurance premiums.
- Subtract the standard or itemized deduction: Standard for most filers; itemized only if it exceeds the standard.
- Apply federal income tax brackets: To taxable income, not gross.
- Apply FICA and state tax: FICA on gross wages (with limits); state tax usually on taxable income similar to federal.
Each step depends on getting the previous one right. Skip ahead and you'll over- or under-estimate.
Step 1: Gross income
Gross is your salary before anything is taken out. For a salaried worker, that's the offer letter number: $100,000 in our example. For hourly workers, multiply your hourly rate by expected annual hours — Salary to Hourly Converter works in reverse for this.
What's not in gross for take-home estimating purposes:
- Employer 401(k) match (it's compensation but doesn't pass through your paycheck as cash)
- Employer-paid health insurance premium (same)
- The employer half of FICA (the employer pays it; you don't see it)
What is in gross:
- Base salary
- Anticipated bonus (handle separately for tax purposes, but include in annual gross)
- Commissions
- Any other regular wage compensation
For our worked example: $100,000 gross.
Step 2: Subtract pre-tax deductions
Pre-tax deductions come off the top before income tax is calculated. The big ones:
- Traditional 401(k) contributions: 2026 limit is $23,500 for under-50, $31,000 with catch-up.
- HSA contributions: $4,300 single / $8,550 family in 2026.
- FSA: Up to $3,200 for healthcare FSA.
- Pre-tax health insurance premium: Often $2,000-6,000/year for the employee share.
- Pre-tax commuter benefits: Up to $325/month in 2026.
- Traditional IRA: Not pre-tax through payroll, but deductible at tax time if you qualify.
These don't all reduce every tax. Specifically:
- 401(k), HSA, FSA, and health premiums reduce both federal income tax and (in most cases) state income tax.
- 401(k) does not reduce FICA (Social Security and Medicare).
- HSA and health premiums do reduce FICA.
For our example, assume our $100k single filer contributes:
- 401(k): $10,000 (a 10% contribution)
- Pre-tax health premium: $2,400
- HSA: $2,000
Pre-tax deductions total: $14,400
This brings federal/state taxable income down toward $85,600, but FICA is calculated on a different base (more on that in step 5).
Step 3: Subtract the standard deduction
The 2026 standard deduction is:
- $14,600 for single filers
- $29,200 for married filing jointly
- $21,900 for head of household
Most people take the standard deduction. You'd only itemize (using Schedule A for things like large mortgage interest, state and local taxes capped at $10,000, big charitable contributions, etc.) if your itemized total exceeds the standard.
For our $100k single example:
- Gross: $100,000
- Less pre-tax deductions: −$14,400
- Less standard deduction: −$14,600
- Federal taxable income: $71,000
Step 4: Apply federal income tax brackets
Federal tax is calculated on a marginal basis — each bracket's rate only applies to dollars within that bracket. Here are the relevant 2026 single-filer brackets (rates apply to taxable income, not gross):
- 10% on income up to about $11,925
- 12% from $11,925 to about $48,475
- 22% from $48,475 to about $103,350
- 24% from $103,350 to about $197,300
- And higher brackets above that
The 22% bracket starts at $47,150 of taxable income for single filers under the post-2026 reset, depending on annual inflation adjustments. For planning purposes, treat the boundary as in the high $40k range.
For our $71,000 taxable income:
- First $11,925 at 10% = $1,193
- Next ~$36,550 at 12% = ~$4,386
- Remaining ~$22,525 at 22% = ~$4,956
Federal income tax: ~$10,535
Our effective federal income tax rate is $10,535 / $100,000 = 10.5% — much lower than the "22% bracket" sounds. This is the most common confusion in take-home math: people see "22% bracket" and assume 22% of their whole paycheck is going to federal tax. It isn't.
Step 5: Apply FICA and state tax
FICA
FICA is two taxes bundled:
- Social Security: 6.2% on wages up to the 2026 wage base of $176,100.
- Medicare: 1.45% on all wages, plus an additional 0.9% on wages over $200,000 (single) or $250,000 (joint).
FICA is calculated on a different base than income tax. It applies to gross wages minus HSA, FSA, and pre-tax health premiums, but not minus your 401(k) contribution. So:
- FICA wages = $100,000 − $2,000 (HSA) − $2,400 (health) = $95,600
- Social Security: 6.2% × $95,600 = $5,927
- Medicare: 1.45% × $95,600 = $1,386
- FICA total: $7,313
State income tax
State tax varies widely. Some no-tax states (Texas, Florida, Washington, Tennessee, Nevada, South Dakota, Wyoming, Alaska, New Hampshire on interest-only). Others have flat rates (Colorado ~4.4%, Illinois 4.95%, Utah 4.65%). Many use brackets similar to federal but at lower rates.
For our example, let's split into two scenarios:
- In Texas (no state tax): State tax = $0
- In California (progressive, top bracket 13.3%): For $71,000 of taxable income, an effective rate of roughly 4-5% on taxable income → ~$3,000-3,500
Putting it together: the $100k single example
In Texas
- Gross: $100,000
- 401(k): −$10,000 (goes to retirement account, not your bank but still yours)
- HSA: −$2,000
- Health premium: −$2,400
- Federal income tax: −$10,535
- FICA: −$7,313
- State: −$0
Net to bank account: ~$67,752 / year, or about $5,646/month.
Take-home as % of gross: 67.8%. But that's only the cash; the 401(k) and HSA money is also yours, just tied up. Including them, your total "you" money is $79,752, or 79.8% of gross.
In California
Same as above plus ~$3,200 state tax: $64,552 / year, or $5,379/month.
Take-home cash %: 64.6%.
The "30% rule" — when it works and when it doesn't
A widely-quoted rule of thumb is "expect to lose 30% to taxes." For our $100k Texas example, total taxes (federal + FICA + state) are $17,848 — only 17.8% of gross. The 30% rule is way off here.
Why the discrepancy? The 30% number includes income tax + FICA + state for a higher-income, higher-tax-state scenario, often without accounting for pre-tax deductions. It's a fine guess for a $150k+ earner in California, but wildly wrong for a $60k earner in Texas.
A better mental model for back-of-napkin work:
| Profile | Total tax burden as % of gross |
|---|---|
| Lower-mid income (under $60k), no-tax state | 15-20% |
| Mid income ($60-120k), no-tax state | 18-25% |
| Mid income, mid-tax state | 22-28% |
| Higher income ($150k+), high-tax state (CA/NY/NJ) | 30-40% |
| High income ($300k+), high-tax state | 35-45% |
If you want a more accurate number, Take-Home Pay Calculator does the math for your state and filing status.
Common shortcuts and the errors they introduce
Shortcut 1: "Multiply gross by 0.7"
Fine for high earners in high-tax states. Off by 5-15 points for everyone else. Not bad for a 30-second sanity check; bad for a budget.
Shortcut 2: "Just subtract the federal bracket"
Multiplying gross by your top bracket rate over-states tax dramatically because brackets are marginal. A 22%-bracket earner has an effective federal rate closer to 12-14%.
Shortcut 3: "Forget FICA"
FICA is 7.65% — bigger than most state taxes. Ignoring it is a major error.
Shortcut 4: "Use a paycheck calculator from one of your coworkers' states"
State variation is the single biggest swing in take-home pay between US workers. The same $100k salary takes home ~$3,500 less in California than Texas, every year. Always recalculate by state.
What changes the answer most
If you're trying to predict take-home for a raise, a move, or a new job, the variables that move the number meaningfully:
- State income tax: Moving from California to Texas or Florida is often the largest single tax change you'll ever experience without changing your salary.
- Filing status: Joint filers benefit from larger brackets and a $29,200 standard deduction. The marriage penalty exists at high incomes but doesn't kick in until well into six figures.
- Pre-tax retirement contributions: Every dollar of traditional 401(k) is a dollar that defers tax. Maxing out shifts your tax owed meaningfully.
- HSA contributions: HSA dollars are tax-deductible for federal, state, AND FICA. They're the most tax-advantaged dollar in the US tax code.
For comparing raises specifically — where the marginal math matters more than total take-home — Raise / Promotion Calculator handles the bracket-jump scenarios.
When to stop estimating and ask a CPA
For most W-2 employees with a straightforward situation, the five-step process above is good to within a few percent. You probably don't need professional help for the estimate; you might want it for the actual return if you have:
- RSU or stock option income
- Side business or freelance income (1099)
- Rental property
- Major life event (marriage, divorce, new baby, big move) mid-year
- Multiple state residencies in the same year
For everyone else: the math is just arithmetic. The hard part is getting the order right. Now you have the order.